Rear Mount Turbo info

Here is some rear mount turbo info for those who asked. First, you can run a muffler behind the turbo if you choose, of not if you want the cool cruising sound. Machs Nix...makes no difference as long as you stay the same diameter of the turbo outlet. Second, intercoolers are usually not needed due to the length of outlet piping headed forward on the truck to the throttle body. Since the turbo sits lower than the engine, being oil fed, it has to return that oil back to the engine. I used to use TurboWerks, now it is all CX Racing parts. Make sure the line is at least #8 returning to the engine. Some folks tap the oil pan, some return to the valve cover, some are more detailed. Keep in mind, you can send too much oil to the turbo and modifying nitrous jets to use in the inlet of the turbo works well to keep from blowing the turbo seal out. Most turbos come with restriction inlets now anyways. I weld my piping flanges in place and simply run a pre filter on the K&N filters to the inlet. If it is an off road project, I work hard to mount the turbo upfront, not in the rear. Depending upon boost levels and whether the engine is stock, determines the boost level. Most mags respond well with 6-8psi. Intercooling never hurts, as the cooler the intake temp, the more spark advance you can run. Timing with no intercooler needs to stay around 16-18 degrees at 11.8afr. With an intercooler you can run 20-22 with 11.8 afr target. Egt should be safe at 1200 or much less. You will need a 2 bar MAP sensor, 60lb injectors, and a SCT with a 2bar calibration in it. Keep the wastegate close to the turbo, keep the blowoff valve on the exit side of the intercooler or close to the throttle body airhat. 60mm will come on around 2800, a big 76 will come on much later. I always, run Cometic head gaskets with ARP head studs, and seal the plenum of the intake. Better valvesprings should be considered as it will try to lift them under boost. Here are a few shots...